Understanding the 4 C's

Understanding the 4 C's

As a certified diamond retailer, we have access to all diamond wholesalers- both lab-grown and natural, mined diamonds. 

Before you start your engagement ring process, we suggest learning a quick diamond lesson on The 4 C's. The C's stand for...

  • Carat
  • Clarity
  • Color
  • Cut

 

Along with the 4 C's are a plethora of proportions, finishes, and variations of fluorescence. We won't get into those details here. 

All of these variables ultimately affect the price of your diamond. To increase/decrease the price, we would need to manipulate one of the variables above... the quickest being Carat. There are breakpoints in each of the variables I would not recommend exceeding and we will discuss why.

 

CARAT:

The carat weight of a diamond is a measurement of its weight. One carat is exactly one-fifth of a gram (0.20 g). When a diamond is properly cut, the carat weight defines the size of the diamond. When it comes to smaller diamonds, our concierge may use the term “points” to discuss diamond weights with you. One point is one-hundredth of a carat (0.01). A “33 point diamond” would be 0.33 carats.

A “buy shy” diamond is one that’s weight is just shy of a major carat threshold such as 1.90ct instead of a 2ct. Just like mined diamonds, lab diamonds are priced mostly by their carat weight, with the price per carat at 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, and 3 carats at much higher rates than just below those thresholds. Buy shy diamonds are similar in carat weight and may be indistinguishable to the naked eye from a much more expensive alternative. Buy shy diamonds are also very popular and sell fast!

Larger lab and mined diamonds of weights of 2.5ct+ are more scarce and difficult to find, particularly in certain elongated shapes such as pears, emeralds, and elongated cushions. Clients seeking a very large lab diamond should not expect to be able to view several options at once and should recognize that this is a supply-constrained, rare product.

 

CLARITY:

Clarity is a measurement of how many or how large of blemishes or "inclusions" are present in the diamond. The lower the clarity of a diamond, the more imperfections in the diamond. Lab diamonds vary in clarity, just like mined diamonds. Not all inclusions are created equal! Some lab diamond inclusions are difficult to spot even under magnification and others can be more easily visible to the naked eye. All of our diamonds are guaranteed to be eye clean and inspected for quality. While we prefer to sell only VS2 and above, we will sell an SI1 lab diamond on a case by case basis.

Clarity is the second largest driver of price after carat weight. It is imperative that a lab diamond expert inspect your diamond ahead of purchase to ensure you are getting the best possible quality for your investment.

From Flawless to Included: Five Major Grades of Clarity

The numbers after the major grade are a sub-grade, with the lower number being better. So a VS1 is superior to a VS2, which is superior to a SI1. Diamond clarity is graded by viewing the diamond through a 10x magnification with a tool called a loupe.  

Flawless and Internally Flawless (FL, IF)

Both FL and IF diamonds have no internal inclusions visible with magnification. Both flawless and internally flawless lab diamonds are extremely rare. This is because truly flawless lab diamonds do not get cut into gemstones, but rather are used for high-tech purposes such as laser lenses.

Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1, VVS2)

Imperfections are extremely difficult to locate with 10x magnification and impossible to see without jewelers tools. This a premium quality level and FTM's most popular clarity categories.

Very Slightly Included (VS1, VS2)

Imperfections are difficult to locate with magnification and not visible to the naked eye. A layperson would have difficulty finding inclusions even with 10x magnification.

Slightly Included(SI1, SI2)

Imperfections are easy to locate with 10x magnification, but are very difficult (SI1) or difficult (SI2) to see without a jeweler's tools. FTM sells SI1 diamonds on a case-by-case basis.

Imperfect (I1, I2, I3)

Imperfections are very easy to see under magnification and can be seen with the naked eye. Imperfect diamonds are more susceptible to cracking or breaking during daily wear. The majority of mined diamonds are of Imperfect clarity. FTM does not sell any imperfect diamonds.

 

 

COLOR:

Lab Diamonds Vary in Color and Are Not All Colorless.

Just like in mined diamonds, lab diamonds can vary in color from icey white to yellowish-brown. Gemological laboratories have standardized on a range of letter grades of D-Z. FTM Diamonds are proud to only sell diamonds that are colorless (D-E-F) or near-colorless (G-H). Lab diamond pricing is affected by color grade as higher color diamonds are more desirable than warmer ones.

How do Diamonds get Their Color?

The most common impurity in mined diamonds is clusters of nitrogen atoms inside the diamond, contributing to a yellow or brown undertone. Over 98% of mined diamonds have nitrogen impurities. Our lab diamonds are Type IIa, meaning that there is zero nitrogen present. Lab diamonds get their yellow and brown undertones from voids in the crystal structure resulting from CVD growth. Most HPHT diamonds are colorless and may have undertones of blue or gray. It’s imperative that a lab diamond expert inspect your diamond prior to purchase to ensure it does not have undesirable color.

 

CUT:

The Cut of the diamond is completely determined by the precision and quality of the methods used to cut and polish the diamond. The only shape that receives an internationally-recognized cut grade is a round brilliant. There is typically no “cut” grade provided to other shapes such as ovals, emeralds, pears, etc.

Note that “Diamond Cut” does not refer to the shape or make of the diamond gemstone.  

The Five Cut Grades

Gemological laboratories have 5 grades of cut: Ideal, Excellent, Very Good, Fair, and Poor. We only offers round diamonds with an Excellent or Ideal cut.

Light Dances Within the Diamond

To understand the differences between an excellent cut diamond and a mediocre cut diamond, you must first understand how light interacts with diamond, as light is reflected and refracted in a very different way than in air, water, glass, or other gemstones. Diamond has a very high refractive index: light slows down in diamond, which creates the brilliance that sets diamonds apart.

The Elements of Cut

BRIGHTNESS is how much light you see when you view a diamond. A well-cut diamond has very specific dimensions that reflect and return virtually all of the light that enters the diamond back out of the top of the diamond. Even in poor lighting, a diamond can appear very bright. A poorly-cut diamond leaks light out of the bottom and is dull or flat when compared to a well-cut diamond.

FIRE describes the rainbow of colors reflected by the diamond gemstone. Diamond has an extremely high rate of light dispersion. When white light enters the diamond, it is spread apart into distinct colors in a prism-like effect.

SCINTILLATION defines the flashes of light that you see when the diamond moves. This is also called the sparkle of the diamond.

PATTERN is the contrasting light and dark areas in a diamond gemstone. The better the cut of the diamond, the better the contrast is between dark areas and light areas. Mediocre diamonds have blurry gray areas, whereas the best-cut diamonds have very distinct contrasting patterns that are uniform throughout the diamond. We are proud to offer special inventory of round brilliants that received a special hearts and arrows designation by IGI or GIA.  

The Make of a Fancy Shape

Not apparent on a grading report is the “make,” or the way a fancy-shaped diamond looks in person. There is information on a grading report such as pavilion depth, symmetry, and polish that help an expert determine whether a fancy-shaped diamond will look gorgeous in person.

 

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